An Investigation of Arcing in Two Structure Weft Knit Fabrics

Abstract

There is a wide range of products such as football jerseys, sweaters, compression bandages, filters, bulletproof vests, and fluid absorbing sheets that contain different knit structures as part of their constructions. The construction provides each product its optimum performance characteristics. Due to the technological advancement of computerized knitting machinery, it is possible to knit different structures side-by-side, rather than in a sequential manner. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate the occurrence of one type of fabric distortion, arcing, when two different structures are knitted side-by-side. Arcing refers to the bending of wales in a knitted fabric.

Three weft knit structures were selected for this research (single jersey, 1x1 rib, and the moss stitch) because they represent the basic single weft knit structure groups: jersey, rib, and purl. This thesis investigates these three structures in fabrics where abutted areas are composed of the combination of any two different structures. The effects of changes in loop length, yarn type, and fiber type on physical properties of dry-relaxed two-structure fabrics are investigated, and the results were discussed with reference to arcing. The potential problems and characteristics of single jersey, 1x1 rib, and the moss stitch structures were examined and their influences on each other were studied.

The results indicated that arcing occurred when two different structures were knitted side-by-side and arcing was effected by the combination of specific structures. It was determined that structural stability contributed highly to the amount of arcing. Fabrics knitted tightly were more susceptible to arcing than the medium knit fabrics, though tight, medium and loose knit fabrics all exhibited arcing. Fabric arcing was also influenced by yarn type. It was determined that spun yarns produced more arcing than filament yarns.